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Interview: Bill Mattos

Bill Mattos - Tahiti

Interview with kayaker and kayak surfer Bill Mattos.

kayak surfThis interview was originally produced for the Portuguese web site 'kayaksurf.net' and is published exclusively on Playak in english to make it available to a wider audience. The portuguese version of the interview is available here.

Bill MattosName: William Mattos
Age: 40
Nationality: British
Occupation: semi-retired
Competition records: In the 90's I won UK Freestyle events, one Eurocup Freestyle competition, and a few surf events. I don't really compete anymore though - the last time I did was the European Kayak Surf Champs at Mundaka in 2004, where I came 5th or 6th I think, just missed out of the final anyway...
Published books: I think it's six Canoeing/Kayaking books including one about Kayak Surfing, plus Extreme Survival. But although that's seven books in all, 4 of them are just different versions of the same content.
Website: www.billmattos.com
Sponsors: Nookie, Delta, System X, Pyranha.

Hi Bill. You won National and European kayak events and you also have lots of experience in different kayak disciplines. Do you think they all complement eachother to improve surfkayaking, or do you agree that, for surf kayaking, board surfing (or other surf sport) is more important?
It can't be bad to have a wide range of experience. But to be honest, I don't think that kayak surfing requires a lot of the skills that come from other forms of boating, it's got its own set of skills. It's just that having wider experience can really help you survive beatings and get around in the surf. If you surf a board, you find once you get in a kayak it's really easy to get in position and catch waves.

Bill Mattos - Kayak SurfingYou had already written several kayaking before your latest book, dedicated to surf kayaking, came out. Why now?
I wanted to do it for myself, and happily the publishers trusted me and went for it, because I had done other books and because I had a bit of a reputation I suppose. I won't make a lot of money out of this book, unless I'm very lucky, but I just wanted to do a kayak surfing book that looked cool and didn't make the sport look... well... geeky I suppose. At least, I hope I managed to make it look cool...

Where do you think surf kayaking is heading?
I think it's a very exciting future for kayak surfing - I think its time has come. I'm glad to see people hitting aerials bigger and more regularly now. I just hope the obsession with moves that wave-skis and surfboards have traditionally been better at doesn't turn surf-kayaks into something other than kayaks.

We already interviewed Nathan and he told us a bit about your Teahupo'o adventure. Please remind us.
Yeah, we went to Tahiti in 2003. Teahupo'o was inevitably the media focus, since that is what would get us attention and sponsorship. In reality we had no idea whether we would be able to surf the famous wave or not, but we knew if we couldn't there would be other great waves and photo opportunities. I'm glad to say that we were able to surf Teahupo'o, but it wasn't our finest hour - we were right on the limit and scared half to death, even on quite a small day. We worked much bigger and better at some of the secret spots. In fact, the best thing about the trip was the way the locals accepted us and took us to these awesome breaks.

Bill Mattos - Tahiti

So the waves really scared you?
Yes. Teahupo'o in particular. It was so shallow, and the lip has so much power. But worse than that was the reputation of the place. We really thought it might kill us. But in fact, we had more accidents and injuries surfing other breaks in Tahiti that we were not so scared of. The truth is, all the breaks out there are shallow and powerful and quite extreme. It's just that Teahupo'o is the one with the fearsome reputation, because it's near a car park and visible from the road, and hence very accessible.

Bill Mattos - Tahiti

You worked as a professional kayaker. How was it? Do you believe it's possible to survive "financially" only with that kind of occupation?
Well, yes it is, but I'd call it surviving rather than making a living. I know a lot of kayakers who don't really do anything else except kayaking, and maybe a bit of guiding or teaching. It's a great life for a while, maybe not forever...

And as a professional surfkayaker... do you think that's possible?
I doubt it right now. Maybe one day though. I think people forget that it's important to be good at the business side, making money for your sponsors, rather than just kayaking all the time. When top paddlers realise that, they may be able to make a living. To put it in perspective, I have even met professional board surfers, respected bignames, who still have to get a job now and then to make ends meet.

Bill Mattos - Wavewheel

NookieWhat are your current activities?
After I finish this interview, I am writing updates to my original kayaking book, because it is being republished. It is a basic book, but it has been very successful, and translated into many foreign languages. I'm also working on new things for Nookie, and a couple of water-based projects that I hope will be awesome, but I don't want to lift the lid on those now...

In your opinion, what is the current state of surf kayak design?
I think the current designs are exciting, and I'm glad to see more people designing. But, I hope kayaks stay kayaks. I don't want to paddle something that is uncomfortable or doesn't paddle properly as a boat - if that happens I'd rather take my board.

Bill Mattos - Mundaka

What do you think of the development of "aerials" in a surf kayak?
I think finally people are getting proper big aerials. This is partly due to boat design, but I think it has more to do with a critical mass of surf kayakers - finally there are enough people doing it, and enough media about it, for people to help each other on to greater things.

This year, in Mundaka, the juries were surf boarders. What do you think of this idea – also defended by Darren Bason – of appealing to surf people to judge kayaksurf manoeuvres?
Oh, I think it's totally the way forward, and it's great to have truly independent judges. The world of kayak surfing is too small for us to self judge. Everyone knows everyone's style too well.

Your favorite surf kayak?
I still have a Revenge (Mega). There are newer designs I'd like to try though.

Bill Mattos - Maga Kayaks Revenge

Your scariest moment at sea?
I think, the time in Tahiti that we got wiped out by the biggest set I've ever seen. We lost two of the other guys for what seemed like hours. I was so scared then, I didn't know what was the right thing to do, to search for them or to go for help. It was all good in the end though, made a good story.

Where do you usually surf?
My local breaks are in Cornwall , UK . I haven't surfed abroad for a year now.

Which was the best spot you ever surfed?
Mmm... I think it has to be a secret spot in Tahiti . Or Havae-iti, also in Tahiti. But I did once surf Mundaka at 8-10 feet and that day has a special place in my heart, too.

Have you already surfed in Portugal ?
Yes, quite a bit. I had a great day at Figuera La Foz, I remember. Andoff the water, I think Portugal is the most mellow place I have everspent time, actually.

Bill Mattos - Mundaka and Tahiti

What is your favourite move?
Carved 360. I've only pulled it off about twice!

Any suggestions for those who want to start kayak surfing (besides getting your book of course :) ?
Start small. Better to surf well in small surf than bounce around outta control in surf you can't handle. And go out on a body board or something first, so you know how scary it can be to have hard objects like kayaks hurtling towards you!

Thanks a lot Bill!

Text: Luis Pedro Abreu
Photos: Helen Metcalfe, Nookie, goatboater.com, Oskar Martinez

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