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Topic: 2005 Honda CRF 450x  (Read 593 times)

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porky (bp)

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Any gear heads here who know a lot about working on a 2005 Honda CRF 450x ?

I think mine is having valve issues. How hard is it to check valve clearance and shim the valves if needed? I have never done it myself.

Thanks in advance!


FishingForTheCure

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porky (bp)

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Hey. Good to hear from you 😀 

It is a great bike, Its just getting harder to start, rough idle 😞

Its 11 years old so I guess its to be expected.


FishingForTheCure

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Maybe jets in the carb or valves.  Never did set the valve clearance on my XR but did everything else at one point.  Hondas are rock solid bikes.  The 450 was on my wish list.

Glad to see your still alive & kicking buddy


FishingForTheCure

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Clymer makes good manuals but nowadays google trumps all  :smt003


Otter

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Badass bike. Sorry no help on the valve issue but I used to ride my cousins and man those are fun!

Power whenever and wherever you want it and a suspension that saves you from all the stupid shit you do with that power. Good times :)

-Eliot


Salty.

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Shouldn't be too hard to check. Make sure your bike is spotless before opening up the engine. Use the kickstart to get the valves into position. Keep sliding your feeler gauges in until you find where your at. I bought the feeler gauges that have the pre-bent angle on them. Makes it a whole lot easier although it's doable without them. I have shimmed my KTM & it wasn't too bad but you will need to either buy a shim kit or have a buddy with one.

I'll bet their tight after that many years/hours.


porky (bp)

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Good point. Ill clean it well. Guess Ill just give it a shot. Maybe ill learn something. Hopefully not break something!


seabird

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Sounds like Salty has more relevant experience, but I adjusted the valves on my GS years ago and it wasn't bad at all. It was just a matter of measuring and tweaking about 1000 times to get them just right.


ALPINEX

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It's super easy to do on that bike, I have had several 450R's and do my own. Hard to start definitely sounds like valves, however, the rough idle does not. They would have to be pretty far out to cause that (in my experience). At any rate there is plenty of info on google, and videos showing how to do it, but if you have any mechanical ability at all you should be fine. If you need shims I have two complete sets of hot cams shims, I'm happy to share a couple.

Here's the kicker! In the R model, I can't remember the X, the intake valves are titanium. You'll need to see if the X models are or not, but the problem is once they stretch once, the second stretch isn't far behind, and soon they'll be un-usable. I replaced the head on my current bike with a Fast Heads cylinder head (nice port job and all stainless steel valves), it was costly, but I'll never touch it again. Something to look into if you plan on keeping that bike another 11 years. You can just replace the intake valves if you don't feel like doing the whole head.

Let me know if I can help at all!
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Weimarian

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Only thing I can add, make sure the piston is down in the cylinder you are adjusting before you press open the valve to extract the puck... Bendo otherwise :smt009
Come on out! It's time to play. It's time for TROUT Bass and STRIPER. Let go of the hand brake!


porky (bp)

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Thanks for all the great info.

I was talking to mechanic at work, he suggested doing the stainless valves too..

If I eventually got the stainless vlaves is that considered a "head replacement" ?

Yeah. Gonna keep the bike as long as I can. Trails right out my garage now 😀 want it running good.


trianglelaguna

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my forums for each of my type bikes are an endless source and i can post a pic when i'm stuck and some guy a world away will spend a half hour walking me through the same exact thing they struggled with and worked through---gotta be a really good FB or online group of just that bike I'd bet
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I want to stay as close to the edge as I can without going over. Out on the edge you see all kinds of things you can't see from the center.

People aren’t supposed to look back. I’m certainly not going to do it anymore.”
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trianglelaguna

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I always try and get factory shop manual--which is just one step up from the average manual--usually made by honda as they released that bike and for that bike and the shop technician---one little ---stop before proceeding always---and it pays for itself---does not take much to make a mistake and end up spending 2wice what it was going to save etc..fwiw

I recently did a rim conversion on a kz1000 project -did not want to plop down 250 and shipping for the right rim from ebay canada--in the end --new bearings from another city trip--machine shop to widen one etc...300$ now  :smt044
We are what we pretend to be, so we must be careful about what we pretend to be.

I want to stay as close to the edge as I can without going over. Out on the edge you see all kinds of things you can't see from the center.

People aren’t supposed to look back. I’m certainly not going to do it anymore.”
― Kurt Vonnegut


G-Whiz

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Clymer makes good manuals but nowadays google trumps all  :smt003

I still may have my manuals somewhere... sold my bikes a couple of years ago; never had any issues with the valves....

i did some jet, intake and exhaust  mods which made it ran rough when cold; but once it warmed up, had a hard time (after some sprocket swaps) keeping the treads from torquing on the rims....

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