T-Grip Dowel ???

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hammerhead
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T-Grip Dowel ???

Post by hammerhead »

Guys, I need to replace a T-grip on a canoe paddle and I was wondering what hardwood is usually used. I could also use approx dimensions as the original is probably now floating somewhere in the Atlantic(?). I wear a large to xl glove. Thanks in advance & Cheers!

ps. It's a Mitchell Premier Paddle.
ezwater
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Re: T-Grip Dowel ???

Post by ezwater »

You can probably call Mitchell on the phone and get the dimensions. The hardwood dowels typically found in hardware stores are made of some nondescript but adequate wood. For purposes of drilling and gluing, you could use square cross section stock and then carve it toward round until it feels good. You could even arc the top of the grip.

I can post pictures of the fancy grips on my Mitchell and Clinch River, but I sense that you're in a hurry to get back on the water.
DougB
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Re: T-Grip Dowel ???

Post by DougB »

I use dowel from the local Home Depot. I believe it's Maple. Get 1 1/4" diameter dowel. Length of the grip is really up to you but I prefer them on the wider side - about 4.75". You'll need a 1" fostner bit to drill out for the shaft. It's a lot easier with a drill press because you've really got to get it centered. It's also important to oil or varnish the grip. Another tip - Fostner bits can cost close to $20 - if you don't already have one you're better off calling Mitchell - I'm sure they will send you a new grip for less than the cost of the bit, dowel and your time.
hammerhead
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Re: T-Grip Dowel ???

Post by hammerhead »

Great info, Good advice...got Me headed in right direction. No need for pics as I'm just looking for a dowel type grip(nothing fancy). Thanks...
ezwater
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Re: T-Grip Dowel ???

Post by ezwater »

I cut the shaft down so I don't need as large a hole in the grip. I have a 1/2" Forstner bit but often don't use it. A perfect hole isn't necessary as long as a bit of play allows the final alignment to be realized by the epoxy taking up the slack.
JimW
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Re: T-Grip Dowel ???

Post by JimW »

I've been experimenting with turning T-grips on a wood lathe after a conversation on the c-boating uk facebook group. I chose Sycamore because it was relatively inexpensive and has a fine grain structure that turns well and shouldn't splinter, the 2 styles I've made so far (made, not used) feel really good just turned and sanded - haven't even got as far as waxing or oiling yet. Working through from 80-400 grit sandpaper I have ended up with a silky smooth finish.

Maple and Sycamore are from the same family so I would guess Maple would work pretty well too.

I was advised against Ash because it has a coarse grain which can splinter, I have some to try but haven't got round to trying it yet.

I've been making shaped grips with a larger diameter bulb for the palm, rough dimensions (in metric I'm afraid) are 130mm long, ~40mm dia under the palm tapering to ~30mm each side. One type has the ends rounded, the other has them flared back up to about 34mm. Like I say I haven't tried them yet but they both feel really good on their own! I think people with smaller hands would want to reduce the 40mm palm diameter. Of course some people prefer straight dowel without shaping.
ezwater
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Re: T-Grip Dowel ???

Post by ezwater »

I have not had any splintering problems with ash, oak, walnut, dogwoood, or elm grips. The stresses on a grip are unlikely to cause splintering. Several coats of oil will further reduce the risk of splinters arising from the grip surface.


Here's a crazy idea that might just work. 8) Instead of dowel stock, start with square cross section stock of whatever wood you choose. It'll be so much easier to drill for the shaft, and to saw and carve to a desired shape, than it will with round dowel stock that has to be specially clamped so it doesn't squirrel away from your tools.

If all you want is a cylindrical result, then dowel stock saves time. But if you want anything more imaginative, and functional, then square stock is the way to go. :wink:
JimW
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Re: T-Grip Dowel ???

Post by JimW »

I use square turning blanks :)

I will try Ash, I wasn't convinced by the warning about splintering, properly finished thwarts and yokes aren't renown for splintering. Sycamore blanks are cheaper and do finish very well though....
ezwater
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Re: T-Grip Dowel ???

Post by ezwater »

Sycamore is sometimes harvested in KY to make cutting boards. It must withstand cutting whacks and wide variations in environmental wetness, as well as being fairly dimensionally stable. I just haven't had a piece to try and work with it.
hammerhead
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Re: T-Grip Dowel ???

Post by hammerhead »

Thanks Again...Great Info gained from experience.
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