Author Topic: Boy, got dumped and humbled in Santa Cruz today.  (Read 5009 times)

SUPcheat

  • Cortez Bank Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 2677
    • View Profile
Boy, got dumped and humbled in Santa Cruz today.
« on: September 16, 2014, 02:39:48 PM »
Man, got beaten up today. Came back to Santa Cruz to see if I could tolerate a "big day"  around Privates and Sharks Cove. 

I was hoping I could sneak over the Sharks and get the stealth inside break while all the egomaniacs stayed outside to get the show off big waves. However, I could just never stay there long or get there with any ease due to the constant inside churn.

Waves were often shoulder to overhead on the outside.  However, the sets came in in very high numbers  with lots of relentless, churning, burning white water. Getting back out was solemn labor for me, although I noticed some of the old salt SUP guys managed to find the right spots to go back out faster.

The low tide was more of a low-high tide, so also lots of chop and washback. This made turning to catch the waves a real balancing challenge.

I was out for over two and a half hours and didn't think I really accomplished much. I originally hoped to catch a string of inside 3 to 4 footers to practice some controlled turning.

 A guy on an L41 board asked me if I was catching anything and I told him I was outclassed and wasn't catching much. What I caught was a combo of wave and toss so the rides tended to be very unstable, not much turning practice, just turning to stay up.

On the bright side, I got lots of white water experience paddling back out both on my knees (mostly) to the point where it was boring and routine, and some standing up against the white water practice where I was mostly successful in standing up and going over them against some fairly powerful churn.  The churn kept me mostly on my knees, though, but I did get  stand up practice. It makes me realize I still have a ways to go on the balance skills.

I did catch some waves but they were so intermittent.  I did one of those SUP stealth things where I wheeled around a huge mass of proners on the outside, started coming in to a clear spot, and caught a nice wave that was too small for egomaniacs but too big for the inside guppies, maybe 4.5 footer

There was also some interesting experiences on my knees of getting shot out of white water cannons to land back in the water then pop up for some stand up ride.

Anyway, I think this kind of surf would have overwhelmed me completely a few months ago, so that I handled at all was probably OK for me.  It was too relentless to even be scared, just ongoing disorientation and confusion with a very few calm spots.
« Last Edit: September 16, 2014, 02:42:24 PM by SUPcheat »
2013 Fanatic Prowave LTD 9'3"x30.5x@134L
Sunova Speeed 8'10"x29.12@131L
Sunova Flow 8'7"x30.25"@121L
Carbon 9.3x32@163L Hammer
Me: 6'1"@230 lbs 68 years old

The Kernel

  • Sunset Status
  • ****
  • Posts: 344
  • Dana Point, CA
    • View Profile
Re: Boy, got dumped and humbled in Santa Cruz today.
« Reply #1 on: September 16, 2014, 03:47:52 PM »
"...the sets came in in very high numbers  with lots of relentless, churning, burning white water. Getting back out was solemn labor for me....."

Dogpatch here in SoCal was very similar today.  At one point I heard hooting while I was on a wave and saw that it was SanOSup on his way out.  I smoothly garaged saled on the inside and then had a nice time watching him hopping waves on the way out.

Until the waves hopped him.

Then the two of us got worked by what felt to be a fifty wave set....longest I've ever had to endure.  I finally got back out and rode a couple more, then went in looking for the board or body of my amigo.

He was smarter than me....had gone in and was lounging on a beach chair watching idiots like me waste energy.

Saw one broken leash situation--retrieved some dude's board as it was on its way in and saw that it had broken off near the swivel on the cuff.  For me, that's a general proxy for conditions here, because leash breaks don't seem that common in our smaller conditions.

Kernel:  Cutting through the bull**it.
"This is the kernel of the argument."

Over 50, but usually pushing it like I'm 25 and paying for it later.

8'0 L41 Simsup
9'2" T. Patterson Rising Sun
9'2" Riviera Nugg Turbo Carbon
10' Riviera Machete

TallDude

  • Cortez Bank Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 5714
  • Capistrano Beach
    • View Profile
    • Email
Re: Boy, got dumped and humbled in Santa Cruz today.
« Reply #2 on: September 16, 2014, 04:30:03 PM »
I was at DogPatch just long enough to see everyone getting worked try to get out. OH wash, and broken leashes. No one getting anything more than one or two bumpy turns before it closed out. I headed to DoHo, and proceeded to catch 3 shoulder high long fast rights with in the first 15 min. out. I got my fill, no swimming or broken leashes. Had a run in with a local longboarder who intentionally hit my board and tried to make it look like it was my doing. I was paddling out and was clear the wave well in front of him. He decides to cut out right behind me and dives over the tail of my board. I felt the contact but I was too pissed to think about it. I turned around and said "what the F##k was that all about. Why did you decide to cut out right then?" He says" Just protecting my line. I don't mean any trouble". I thought about it for a while.
Later thought maybe it was just a legitimate accident. So I decide to say I'm sorry for jumping to conclusions. He says" Just protecting 'Our Line'." So he did it intentionally. I thought I better leave before I do something I'll regret. When I'm walking up the beach, I notice a big gash in the side of my board where the guy hit me. I was so pissed, I walked up to the head lifeguard and unleash a fury about them protecting all the F--K heads, and look what they did to my board. If they are going to "protect their line, I am going to protect our line! Get it! He apologized to me and asked which guy it was. I pointed him out, and he says " oh ya, I know who he is." I said, "you guys and your rule are an F'n joke! I grew up here, but you guys support  A holes like that! " And I walked off.
SUS life on the line....
It's not overhead to me!
8'8" L-41 ST and a whole pile of boards I rarely use.

JayInSoCal

  • Sunset Status
  • ****
  • Posts: 328
    • View Profile
    • Email
Re: Boy, got dumped and humbled in Santa Cruz today.
« Reply #3 on: September 16, 2014, 04:38:17 PM »
I was at DogPatch just long enough to see everyone getting worked try to get out. OH wash, and broken leashes. No one getting anything more than one or two bumpy turns before it closed out. I headed to DoHo, and proceeded to catch 3 shoulder high long fast rights with in the first 15 min. out. I got my fill, no swimming or broken leashes. Had a run in with a local longboarder who intentionally hit my board and tried to make it look like it was my doing. I was paddling out and was clear the wave well in front of him. He decides to cut out right behind me and dives over the tail of my board. I felt the contact but I was too pissed to think about it. I turned around and said "what the F##k was that all about. Why did you decide to cut out right then?" He says" Just protecting my line. I don't mean any trouble". I thought about it for a while.
Later thought maybe it was just a legitimate accident. So I decide to say I'm sorry for jumping to conclusions. He says" Just protecting 'Our Line'." So he did it intentionally. I thought I better leave before I do something I'll regret. When I'm walking up the beach, I notice a big gash in the side of my board where the guy hit me. I was so pissed, I walked up to the head lifeguard and unleash a fury about them protecting all the F--K heads, and look what they did to my board. If they are going to "protect their line, I am going to protect our line! Get it! He apologized to me and asked which guy it was. I pointed him out, and he says " oh ya, I know who he is." I said, "you guys and your rule are an F'n joke! I grew up here, but you guys support  A holes like that! " And I walked off.
SUS life on the line....

Was he wearing a blue shirt with white zinc all over his face?  I went to Doho before work and some jackass longboarder was mumbling something to me (I had earplugs in and I couldn't hear him), as he paddled past me he pulled my leash to try and make me fall (which didn't work), and he kept paddling.  I was kinda shocked he did that, and just let it go.
8'4" L41 SS3
9'2" Riviera Turbo Nugg
9'6" Wavestorm
10' Infinity Carver
14' Infinity Whiplash

Sup44

  • Rincon Status
  • ***
  • Posts: 160
    • View Profile
    • Email
Re: Boy, got dumped and humbled in Santa Cruz today.
« Reply #4 on: September 16, 2014, 04:44:43 PM »
Same happened to me today. I was at 204's in San Clemente. Waves were breaking once every 15 min? Then all of a sudden a set came that never stopped. Dragged me to shore twice. Wish I had stayed in...

I made it about halfway out when a wave took my board under water. It shot out like a rocket and slammed me in the stomach. I almost blacked out and could not breath. I was fighting the urge to vomit. Then I had to take the beating of the continuos set. Top 10 scariest moments out on the water.

Nice dose of humble pie..
8'2 Mad Dog Naish
8'0 Starboard Pro
7'10 Hokua Naish

TallDude

  • Cortez Bank Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 5714
  • Capistrano Beach
    • View Profile
    • Email
Re: Boy, got dumped and humbled in Santa Cruz today.
« Reply #5 on: September 16, 2014, 04:53:04 PM »
I was at DogPatch just long enough to see everyone getting worked try to get out. OH wash, and broken leashes. No one getting anything more than one or two bumpy turns before it closed out. I headed to DoHo, and proceeded to catch 3 shoulder high long fast rights with in the first 15 min. out. I got my fill, no swimming or broken leashes. Had a run in with a local longboarder who intentionally hit my board and tried to make it look like it was my doing. I was paddling out and was clear the wave well in front of him. He decides to cut out right behind me and dives over the tail of my board. I felt the contact but I was too pissed to think about it. I turned around and said "what the F##k was that all about. Why did you decide to cut out right then?" He says" Just protecting my line. I don't mean any trouble". I thought about it for a while.
Later thought maybe it was just a legitimate accident. So I decide to say I'm sorry for jumping to conclusions. He says" Just protecting 'Our Line'." So he did it intentionally. I thought I better leave before I do something I'll regret. When I'm walking up the beach, I notice a big gash in the side of my board where the guy hit me. I was so pissed, I walked up to the head lifeguard and unleash a fury about them protecting all the F--K heads, and look what they did to my board. If they are going to "protect their line, I am going to protect our line! Get it! He apologized to me and asked which guy it was. I pointed him out, and he says " oh ya, I know who he is." I said, "you guys and your rule are an F'n joke! I grew up here, but you guys support  A holes like that! " And I walked off.
SUS life on the line....

Was he wearing a blue shirt with white zinc all over his face?  I went to Doho before work and some jackass longboarder was mumbling something to me (I had earplugs in and I couldn't hear him), as he paddled past me he pulled my leash to try and make me fall (which didn't work), and he kept paddling.  I was kinda shocked he did that, and just let it go.
That was the guy. His torn up blue rash guard and general homeless look is an indication of his contributions to mankind. He probably lives in one of the beater motor homes in the parking lot.

I still had fun. Just a bump in the road.  ;)

Cheat,
Sorry about hijacking your thread.
« Last Edit: September 16, 2014, 05:08:13 PM by TallDude »
It's not overhead to me!
8'8" L-41 ST and a whole pile of boards I rarely use.

JayInSoCal

  • Sunset Status
  • ****
  • Posts: 328
    • View Profile
    • Email
Re: Boy, got dumped and humbled in Santa Cruz today.
« Reply #6 on: September 16, 2014, 04:58:03 PM »
Wow...yup that was him, it was all torn up.  I'll keep an watch out for that dude in the future, maybe "Protect our line" on him a few times.  It's getting hostile at Battlefield Doho. 

Sorry for the slight thread hijack. 
8'4" L41 SS3
9'2" Riviera Turbo Nugg
9'6" Wavestorm
10' Infinity Carver
14' Infinity Whiplash

SUPcheat

  • Cortez Bank Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 2677
    • View Profile
Re: Boy, got dumped and humbled in Santa Cruz today.
« Reply #7 on: September 16, 2014, 05:00:21 PM »
Sorry to hear about your board gash, TallDude, that sucks.

I guess the whole coast got worked today. Supposed to be calming down a bit through Friday.  This kind of surf seems to require specialty methods to stay outside to catch the stuff. I was mostly looking to make sure that leashless surfboards weren't hidden in the huge white water churns.

I was checking out the Pleasure Point camera and the surf looks really strange.  A few laminar, breaking sheets of water,  with a lot of just crashing, disorganized, foaming tossing, closing out white water.

If the surfers can stay ahead of that white water, they do OK. Looks like a lot of experts came out of the woodwork.
« Last Edit: September 16, 2014, 05:13:42 PM by SUPcheat »
2013 Fanatic Prowave LTD 9'3"x30.5x@134L
Sunova Speeed 8'10"x29.12@131L
Sunova Flow 8'7"x30.25"@121L
Carbon 9.3x32@163L Hammer
Me: 6'1"@230 lbs 68 years old

goodfornothin

  • Sunset Status
  • ****
  • Posts: 265
    • View Profile
Re: Boy, got dumped and humbled in Santa Cruz today.
« Reply #8 on: September 16, 2014, 05:15:26 PM »
I've had words with that guy. I just pretend I can't hear them, and I keep asking the same question over and over in a stupid German accent. U are working zee line?  Just pisses them off even more. 

We got our stewards of surfing up here in HB as well, bunch of scared bigots.  Many moons ago I was an 8 time all american water polo player and swimmer.  I just tell guys I'll swim them down before they will ever get to shore, tends to shut up the chirpers.

Or just do psycho man, just yell and scream and say weird conspiracy shit, start babbling you got a tetanus shot and you got the autism now, argh, abbha hhanagagajdjd,



SUPcheat

  • Cortez Bank Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 2677
    • View Profile
Re: Boy, got dumped and humbled in Santa Cruz today.
« Reply #9 on: September 16, 2014, 05:29:22 PM »
Churn, baby, churn!
2013 Fanatic Prowave LTD 9'3"x30.5x@134L
Sunova Speeed 8'10"x29.12@131L
Sunova Flow 8'7"x30.25"@121L
Carbon 9.3x32@163L Hammer
Me: 6'1"@230 lbs 68 years old

The Kernel

  • Sunset Status
  • ****
  • Posts: 344
  • Dana Point, CA
    • View Profile
Re: Boy, got dumped and humbled in Santa Cruz today.
« Reply #10 on: September 16, 2014, 08:04:09 PM »
Went out this afternoon at Churches with a buddy who used to be a pro shortboarder.  He was jumping out of his shoes with enthusiasm when he saw the conditions.

So I went out also, on my prone shortboard, just hoping to avoid getting hit by a mountain and maybe catch one decent ride.  Was doing well for a while, then got taken out by a monster that gave me enough time underwater to reconsider the risk/reward calculation I had done earlier.  Managed to maintain my cool, but came up pointing the board to land and then got worked/boogie boarded the next wave back in.

Count for the evening for prone shortboarding:  0 waves.

Back to the drawing board...
Kernel:  Cutting through the bull**it.
"This is the kernel of the argument."

Over 50, but usually pushing it like I'm 25 and paying for it later.

8'0 L41 Simsup
9'2" T. Patterson Rising Sun
9'2" Riviera Nugg Turbo Carbon
10' Riviera Machete

supdiscobay

  • Peahi Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 797
    • View Profile
    • Email
Re: Boy, got dumped and humbled in Santa Cruz today.
« Reply #11 on: September 16, 2014, 11:14:21 PM »
Cheat,
I saw you at inside Sharks around 11am.  My wife and I had just arrived and we were up at the hook lookout.  At first the waves seemed relatively mellow.  Head hi+ but not unreasonable.  My wife started thinking she would paddle out.  Then the first set we saw arrived.  15 waves later the carnage of boards and bodies caught inside were everywhere.  There were about 150 out from the hook down to Capitola, and more getting wetsuits on.  We saw one of the larger sets of the day right then and waves were between, 2-3' overhead to double at the hook.  We checked out 38th and drainpipes and sewer peak, which was also extremely crowded for a Tuesday. My wife decided it was a good day for a tan, and I paddled out at 38th and spent some time up at sewers too!

It was a good day to hang outside, cause if you stuck around inside too long, the set waves would make you pay.  I paddled out on my 8'10" Kings sidewinder and went right out to the main peak.  Caught a couple that I had to kick out of as the it was closing out right before you hit drainpipes.  So I moved just south of the peak and started going for set waves.  The drops were fun as hell and you immediately had to fire down the line.  38th was fast and hollow all day. Because the sets were about 15-18 minutes apart, Once I caught a set wave, I would ride it and straighten out right before close out and take the whitewater to the beach and wait for the set waves to pass, then paddle back out in nice calm water.

I did kick out on one wave and really paid the price as there were 6 more waves behind it and they were bigger.  So taking the whitewater to the beach and waiting worked really well.  This was my first time back in the water since my Mexico trip to K38, where I contracted an ecoli infection.  3 hours of absolute fun today.

The day was made better as when I walked down the stairs to paddle out, I saw my buddy Tim Martin waiting for the set to end to paddle out.  We always run into each other down there, but never in the water together.
After Tim left, I ran into my high school water polo coach, who i used to surf with in high school in the 70's. He was on a shortboard, but we had fun surfing a couple of waves together.  He just retired and and is surfing every day. Its been 30 years since I saw him last.  We had a great time catching waves together.

Overall conditions were great, but crowded.  It was one of those days, however, that a lot of the people out there should not have been and although many were paddling for waves, they weren't really trying to catch them.  I had about 25 rides, and never shared a wave with anyone.  I think I got lucky cause I did see several get dropped in on.  Also had a guy come up and compliment me on my ability on the stand up, right after he did that, as another longboarder was paddling by, he unleashed on the longboarder for dropping in on him.

Great day, great swell, and I hope all in Cali got a little taste of it today.



8'5" Starboard Pocket Rocket, 8'0" Kazuma Fugu custom,  8'10" Kings Sidewinder, 10' Starboard Noserider, 14' BARK Carbon Dominator, SIC F16 V3, KeNalu and Quickblade paddles, 19' Eaton Prone, 67" Goode 9700

surfcowboy

  • Cortez Bank Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 4929
    • View Profile
Re: Boy, got dumped and humbled in Santa Cruz today.
« Reply #12 on: September 16, 2014, 11:33:29 PM »
Haha, I was out at Malibu for that mega set. I actually caught one in the set before and at the end of that one. Best waves I've had in a long time.

I hope that rash guard guy comes to salt creek for BOP.

bts

  • Sunset Status
  • ****
  • Posts: 364
    • View Profile
Re: Boy, got dumped and humbled in Santa Cruz today.
« Reply #13 on: September 16, 2014, 11:48:31 PM »
In the FWIW file, the south swell has been hanging in fairly well here in the middle of the pond.  Today was still nice, although significantly smaller than Sunday.  I think you guys are about 2 days behind us for that direction. Simultaneous early north did not hang in as well, although it is supposed to small bump tomorrow.

SUPcheat

  • Cortez Bank Status
  • *****
  • Posts: 2677
    • View Profile
Re: Boy, got dumped and humbled in Santa Cruz today.
« Reply #14 on: September 17, 2014, 12:51:51 AM »


It was a good day to hang outside, cause if you stuck around inside too long, the set waves would make you pay.  I paddled out on my 8'10" Kings sidewinder and went right out to the main peak.  Caught a couple that I had to kick out of as the it was closing out right before you hit drainpipes.  So I moved just south of the peak and started going for set waves.  The drops were fun as hell and you immediately had to fire down the line.  38th was fast and hollow all day. Because the sets were about 15-18 minutes apart, Once I caught a set wave, I would ride it and straighten out right before close out and take the whitewater to the beach and wait for the set waves to pass, then paddle back out in nice calm water.


Overall conditions were great, but crowded.  It was one of those days, however, that a lot of the people out there should not have been and although many were paddling for waves, they weren't really trying to catch them.  I had about 25 rides, and never shared a wave with anyone.  I think I got lucky cause I did see several get dropped in on.  Also had a guy come up and compliment me on my ability on the stand up, right after he did that, as another longboarder was paddling by, he unleashed on the longboarder for dropping in on him.

Great day, great swell, and I hope all in Cali got a little taste of it today.

Yup, I saw some guys employ the strategy of riding in and waiting for calm to go back out. However, that was often a very long wait in Sharks.

These days bring out the experts, who ordinarily won't darken the ocean with less than 4 footers,  and there were some very skilled SUP guys treating it all like another walk in the park.

I got maybe 10 standup rides of varying quality on the inside, mostly survival rides and pop ups from kneeling. I wouldn't even attempt the outside stuff in crowds, but dealing with it at all was some kind of strange progress.  The relentless toss and white water kept things disorienting .

I don't always feel my age, but today, I did.  I could actually stand up in the bounding swell and get past the white water standing most of the time, I just didn't WANT to. Things started looking a bit less tumultuous just as I was leaving through Privates.

Glad you are feeling better, those e coli things can be disastrous.
« Last Edit: September 17, 2014, 12:56:24 AM by SUPcheat »
2013 Fanatic Prowave LTD 9'3"x30.5x@134L
Sunova Speeed 8'10"x29.12@131L
Sunova Flow 8'7"x30.25"@121L
Carbon 9.3x32@163L Hammer
Me: 6'1"@230 lbs 68 years old

 


SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal