The islands of Sucia, Matia and Patos, along with Clark Island a little east, constitute the northern tier of the San Juans, a line of islets and reefs to the north of Orcas Island, geologically distinct and separate from the rest of the archipelago. (Privately owned Barnes Island, adjacent to Clark, is part of the same group.) Simply put, these particular islands are built differently, but all great for sea kayaking.
Where the glaciers once covered what is now the Salish Sea, the land underneath was relentlessly scoured by their weight and movement, and channels were cut deeply into in the bedrock. As the ice gradually melted and the water levels began to rise, the channels were filled in by the sea and the tops of the surrounding hills became islands. In two short sentences, that is the geological history of the San Juan Islands.
Sucia, Matia and Patos: Top of the San Juans
But the northern tier has another origin story. The rock that makes up the shoreline is clearly not the same found on the other islands to the south. What we see now as a handful of islands was at one time a riverbed. Tectonic upheaval has thrust portions of this ancient riverbed to the surface, and the resulting sandstone shorelines have been sculpted by the elements into free-flowing art, with each rock face and outcropping a slowly changing monument to the power of water, wind, and time.
Sucia Island
Sucia, the largest of the northern tier islands is not just a single island (there are actually six different islands of varying sizes in the cluster), and with over 20 miles of exquisite shoreline to explore, there is enough close-in paddling to pique any explorer’s curiosity. Hiking trails abound, campsites are plentiful, and facilities are good, and this is one of the few island parks in the San Juans where water is available during the busy season. The location makes it the perfect base camp for day trips to nearby Matia and Patos, each just a short distance away.
The gap between Orcas and Sucia is open to winds from almost every point of the compass and currents in this area are swift. In addition, Parker Reef, located to the east of the launch site and about a mile off the Orcas shore, can be a treacherous collection of whirlpools and strong eddylines that makes the surrounding water even more difficult to negotiate. It may be that you will have perfect weather and ideal conditions, but pack some extra food anyway, just in case.
If wind and current are not factors, a paddle from North Beach to Sucia will probably take less than an hour. Once on the south shore of Sucia, you can turn to the west and enter the channel that separates Little Sucia Island from Sucia itself. Fox Cove opens up to the right as you exit the channel and there are some excellent campsites here, as well as on the hillside above.
The rocky shoreline between Fox Cove and Shallow Bay, on the west side of the island, has some of the best examples of the rock masterpieces that Sucia is known for. Intricate sculptures carved by eons of wind and water turn the route into what feels like a trip through an art gallery.
Inside Shallow Bay you’ll find more good camping areas, in three distinct areas, and it’s fairly easy to cross over to Echo Bay with a short portage through one of the group camp sites if you’re opting for a shorter circle around to the south side. Sunsets can be magnificent from this part of the island and the beach is a mix of sand and fine gravel, easy on feet and on gelcoat.
The north coast of Sucia is made up mostly of steeper terrain and is completely exposed to any weather coming out from that direction. Kelp beds are thick and close to the cliffs and bald eagle can often be seen in the branches of the overhanging madrona and evergreens. Depending on which way the wind is blowing, the north shore can be either a welcome respite or a full-body workout, but it is definitely the wildest side of the island, the part that seems least changed by the passing of time.
Between Sucia and Ewing Island, near the east end of the Sucia group, there is a fine little channel that features a beautiful sandy beach and a collection of small islets that form what feels like a sculpture garden. Otter and seal are frequent visitors to the area and the few small campsites in Ewing Cove are ideal for paddlers during the busier times as they are farther away from the powerboat crowd and the higher-use areas.
Echo Bay is the inside of the horseshoe, the enclosed area of Sucia Island. There are two long islands in Echo Bay that are good for paddling around but off limits for landing. There are dozens of floats here and many boaters that visit Sucia use Echo Bay as their base. Consequently, it can feel more like a busy marina than a slice of wilderness, at least during the summer months.
Snoring Bay, on the island’s south side, is less crowded and features excellent campsites for paddlers. According to local lore, Snoring Bay was named for the on-the-clock siestas of a former park ranger and given its relaxed feel and warmed-stone beaches, it’s easy to see how a little nap might seem like the right thing to do.
Matia Island
Elvin Smith was a hermit. Not that he was antisocial or was without love for his fellow human beings, he was just comfortable in his own company. Elvin lived on Matia Island for 30 years, starting at about the time that Washington transitioned from territory to statehood. Known as the “Hermit of Matia Island,” the Civil War veteran lived in a cabin he built from driftwood and island stone, and kept a garden, along with rabbits and chickens, on this small, rocky chunk of land. He would take his dinghy to Orcas Island on occasion when he needed to get something he couldn’t make for himself, and on a February day in 1921, as he was making his way back home with a boat full of newly purchased supplies, the 86 year-old disappeared. Lost at sea, his body was never recovered.
Since then, Matia has been home to the birds and the seals. Like Clark Island, a few miles further east, Matia is mostly off to the side of the heavily traveled routes and therefore, absolutely the perfect spot for a visit. It’s a small island, compared with its neighbors, and most of it is designated as a National Wildlife Refuge, which means that it is off limits to two-legged visitors. The five-acre parcel on the west side of the island, however, is a Marine State Park and is well worth the trip.
Rolfe Cove is the tight little bay where you’ll find the campsites and composting toilet, and there is a dock here in the summer months to handle the pleasure boat traffic. To the north, the waters of the Strait of Georgia stretch toward Canada. Orcas Island dominates the southerly view, with the highlands of Mount Constitution towering above a deep green and forested shoreline two or more miles away. Off to the west and close is Sucia Island, with its many fingers and coves that catch the light and provide the ideal stage for a perfect San Juan sunset.
There’s a short loop trail that goes from the camping area to the east, through stands of old-growth cedar and fir. At one point near the south side of the island, the trail cuts across a marshy spot where Mr. Smith’s cabin used to stand, although you probably won’t be able to pick out much of what remains. At the halfway point, you’ll come to a sign that indicates the area beyond as part of the wildlife refuge. The trail then turns to the north for a bit before wrapping back around to the starting point.
Patos Island
A trip to Patos will take you to the wild side of the San Juans. It’s out-of-the-way and although it does see its share of boaters, it is nowhere near as heavily visited as Sucia. There is camping on the grassy peninsula above the beach at Active Cove, with views of Sidney and Victoria off to the south and the green mass of Orcas Island to the southeast. There are several other sites tucked into the nearby trees which, although they don’t have the panoramic vistas, do offer protection from the wind.
Strong currents often swirl around the western tip of the island and the mass of eddies and rips draws sea lion, porpoise and eagle to feed in the surrounding waters. The best vantage point to watch the interplay between current and stone is the rocky shore near the lighthouse. From here, the Canadian Gulf Islands are a mere two miles away across Boundary Pass, much closer than the north shore of Orcas and about the same distance away as Sucia Island. Eagles are often thick here, flying to and from their perches on Little Patos Island.
There is a longer hiking trail that splits off from the lighthouse access trail. This 1.5 mile loop travels along the north coast of the island, dropping onto the beaches from time to time as it goes. Some of the most striking parts of Patos can be found here on this north-facing shore, with colorful cobble and sand beaches that look out on the blue expanse of Boundary Pass. The trail returns to its starting point along the southern coast of the island, running above the short cliffs that make up most of the shore. This part of the trail is just as panoramic, with the islands of Sucia, Orcas and Waldron making up most of the view to the south.
Access
Access
From the town of Eastsound, on Orcas Island, head north on the North Beach Road. The road ends at a public access point and there is parking available, but it is limited. Getting on the water here during the busy times may require you to unload your gear and drive back up the road to locate a parking spot. There are no facilities at the launch.
—Story and photos by Ken Campbell