Author Topic: Wave Data: Speed, Distance, Drop, Position and Direction Oh My!  (Read 4933 times)

Beasho

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Wave Data: Speed, Distance, Drop, Position and Direction Oh My!
« on: November 17, 2017, 05:00:20 PM »
I have been staring at the data for almost 2 years but finally figured out how to quickly and elegantly extract the information from the TRACE GPS.

Since I bought the TRACE I have recorded 250 sessions with roughly 20,000 data points per session tracking:
  • Time
  • Speed
  • Azimuth (Direction)
  • Latitude
  • Longitude
  • Elevation

Every 1/5th of a second.

Last year I was testing fins and wanted a wave by wave comparison of speed.  Now I have access to all the historic, and future data that I can consume.

Too Much Information.  Yes, until you throw a little Microsoft Power Query and Power BI on it.  Parse it out, put a limitation of 6 mph for isolating waves and then discard anything under 40 yards VOILA:
« Last Edit: November 17, 2017, 05:49:46 PM by Beasho »

Beasho

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Re: Wave Data: Speed, Distance, Drop, Position and Direction Oh My!
« Reply #1 on: November 17, 2017, 05:01:12 PM »
Source Data looks like this:
« Last Edit: November 17, 2017, 05:48:50 PM by Beasho »

Beasho

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Re: Wave Data: Speed, Distance, Drop, Position and Direction Oh My!
« Reply #2 on: November 17, 2017, 05:02:24 PM »
Here is a demonstration of the App. 

https://youtu.be/WZTZyLGFArE

surfcowboy

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Re: Wave Data: Speed, Distance, Drop, Position and Direction Oh My!
« Reply #3 on: November 17, 2017, 05:11:19 PM »
Dude, nice geekery there.

Question, you note near the end that the elevation gets flatter as you progress down the line, I can see that as the big drop happens but then you'd expect it to go up and down. Do you think the foil makes this up and down less necessary as it's working inside the wave and sort of being pushed as opposed to sliding down, or what? Interesting finding there.

Beasho

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Re: Wave Data: Speed, Distance, Drop, Position and Direction Oh My!
« Reply #4 on: November 17, 2017, 05:14:55 PM »
Dude, nice geekery there.
Question, you note near the end that the elevation gets flatter as you progress down the line, I can see that as the big drop happens but then you'd expect it to go up and down.

Elevation is a bizarre one.
For example I would estimate the faces to be 4 to 6 feet from the above session.  Yet the data showed a maximum drop of 7.8 ft.  Assuming the data is correct, and not fake news, then there may be much more going on as the wave progresses from deeper water towards the beach.  I have seen results where I actually ascend several feet as I approach the beach.  Alternately I have had results where I fall off as much as 9 or 10 feet, even on a small day as i get closer to the beach.   :o

If this is real it may suggest a surge of some sort, or massive differential from outside set PEAK to landing on the beach at a potential trough.  Unless the GPS elevation measurement starts to lose precision over distances >> 100 yards ???
« Last Edit: November 17, 2017, 05:23:00 PM by Beasho »

Beasho

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Re: Wave Data: Speed, Distance, Drop, Position and Direction Oh My!
« Reply #5 on: November 17, 2017, 05:16:42 PM »
Cooler still is an Elevation assessment on a big wave.

I went back and opened up data on this wave from Nov 12th, 2016.  1 year ago last Saturday at Mavericks. 

Waves isolated at Mavericks have shown a stepped nature.  Drop, come up a little bit, and then drop again. 

This data suggests I descended 17 feet on the initial drop, shown in the picture below.  I then ascended 4 feet and then fell another 7 feet before kicking off the wave to the south. 

A full drop from Peak to Crest would likely result in getting hammered by the wave.  Best practice might suggest leaving a healthy trough below your feet and progressing down the line to survive until the next wave. 
« Last Edit: November 17, 2017, 05:34:13 PM by Beasho »

seadart

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Re: Wave Data: Speed, Distance, Drop, Position and Direction Oh My!
« Reply #6 on: November 17, 2017, 06:52:53 PM »
Do you know what the horizontal and vertical error specifications for the GPS are for your specific device?  The altitude measurements by non military GPS are  usually quite inaccurate and subject to strange variations due to geometry of moving through a vertical slice of a model meant to be roughly two dimensional locally  in the GPS  approximation of the surface of the earth.  In other words I wouldn't get too excited about any data on vertical movements. 

Rider

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Re: Wave Data: Speed, Distance, Drop, Position and Direction Oh My!
« Reply #7 on: November 17, 2017, 07:42:09 PM »
Hi Guys, happy thanksgiving.  Reading this thread is a bit unsettling.  Beasho, I know from reading you're posts that you are basically a shoulder hopper at a Mavericks.  Good for you.  Most of us on this site would not go there.  You are a brave man.  When you get into you're Wave count mode and you're total Drop feet for the year, you have lost me.  I mean really, is this all you do?  Please don't take this wrong way.  It's kind of in jest, but really.

surfcowboy

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Re: Wave Data: Speed, Distance, Drop, Position and Direction Oh My!
« Reply #8 on: November 17, 2017, 07:56:13 PM »
Rider, if you're an engineer (pro or amateur) this sort of problem solving becomes like painting a picture or doing any other artistic or educational activity.

Exercise isn't only for your muscles and in tech, all skills translate. This is way cooler than watching some horrible TV show (like I'm about to do.)

PonoBill

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Re: Wave Data: Speed, Distance, Drop, Position and Direction Oh My!
« Reply #9 on: November 17, 2017, 08:32:40 PM »
Some people just have to know. I'm not wired like Beasho, I get bored with data. But I understand the passion for it, and the truth is, that it makes the world go round. It used to be that bullshit ruled, but now it's data.

My quirk is that I take on insane projects that have no practical purpose. Different strokes, and yeah, beats the shit out of watching TV or not knowing how anything works. Keeps us off the street and out of mischief--mostly.
« Last Edit: November 17, 2017, 08:34:17 PM by PonoBill »
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

SaMoSUP

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Re: Wave Data: Speed, Distance, Drop, Position and Direction Oh My!
« Reply #10 on: November 17, 2017, 08:57:03 PM »
Microsoft Power Query & BI are great tools. Love doing this stuff. However, my Garmin Fenix 3 does all this automatically and then some, which is why I'm not a fan of the Trace.

With a running history of surf sessions, a couple of stats in the pic below are what I track and try to improve upon. Wave ride speed is what I'm constantly trying to push, and then distance per stroke (especially on a 7'7" which barely gets a glide). This was one afternoon session at San O a few weeks ago.

I do the same for snow skiing, trying to push max speed and total daily vertical feet skied.
« Last Edit: November 17, 2017, 09:00:11 PM by SaMoSUP »

PonoBill

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Re: Wave Data: Speed, Distance, Drop, Position and Direction Oh My!
« Reply #11 on: November 18, 2017, 08:18:25 AM »
Long period waves certainly continue to jack as they peak, and away from the crumbling crest (and sometimes even at the crest, like shipstern), they continue to grow, which is one reason they eventually break down the line (the other reason is that the ocean floor may continue to slope shallower). All that energy behind the wave is moving faster than the energy in front, so the water stacks. Perhaps variations in the ocean floor changing the rate of growth of the face would account for actually ascending when you still feel like you're descending (and relative to the plane of the wave, you actually are descending).

The math for this stuff is only heuristic. Interesting to me how elusive first principle explanations for water wave motion actually are. No lesser light than Feynman took a good swing at the energy transfer between wind and water making waves and gave up on it after nearly a year of work. The actual mechanism and some associated math that actually works for transferring energy to a surfboard are equally impenetrable. It's easy to derive how much energy is transferred and to backfill formulas that describe the phenomena observed, but as usual, the deeper you go, the muddier it gets. In serious texts, the authors start tossing away terms of equations that are problematic--a certain indicator that they are getting lost.
« Last Edit: November 18, 2017, 08:20:53 AM by PonoBill »
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

DailyBread Surf Photo

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Re: Wave Data: Speed, Distance, Drop, Position and Direction Oh My!
« Reply #12 on: November 19, 2017, 06:38:47 AM »
I just got a Trace from a friend, used it for the first time the other day.  I thought the distance numbers were in error but checked them against Google earth and they seem right.




Eagle

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Re: Wave Data: Speed, Distance, Drop, Position and Direction Oh My!
« Reply #13 on: November 19, 2017, 09:25:04 AM »
"Do you know what the horizontal and vertical error specifications for the GPS are for your specific device?  The altitude measurements by non military GPS are  usually quite inaccurate....."

Have not found GPS elevation data to be consistent enough for me to trust.  Just paddle around on flat and see what you get for your device.  Or walk or ride your bike on a level street to check for error.

https://support.garmin.com/faqSearch/en-GB/faq/content/QPc5x3ZFUv1QyoxITW2vZ6

https://www.singletracks.com/blog/gps/gps-elevation-accuracy-test-smartphone-apps-vs-dedicated-gps/

http://gpsinformation.net/main/altitude.htm
Fast is FUN!   8)
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Tom

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Re: Wave Data: Speed, Distance, Drop, Position and Direction Oh My!
« Reply #14 on: November 19, 2017, 09:43:41 AM »
Or drop it from a step ladder.

 


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