Author Topic: Surfing...more sport or religion?  (Read 2895 times)

FRP

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Surfing...more sport or religion?
« on: August 19, 2017, 07:52:42 AM »
My surfing "guru" Catherine sent a link to this Atlantic article. Interesting how surfing has captured my imagination and become much more than a physical sport for me.
https://www.theatlantic.com/entertainment/archive/2017/07/is-surfing-more-religion-than-sport/533721/?utm_campaign=7.27+Summer+Clearance+cont%27d+%28PqMXNx%29&utm_medium=email&utm_source=ZR+Official+-+The+Newsletter+%28Canada%29

Bob
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PonoBill

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Re: Surfing...more sport or religion?
« Reply #1 on: August 19, 2017, 08:35:16 AM »
Addiction.
Foote 10'4X34", SIC 17.5 V1 hollow and an EPS one in Hood River. Foote 9'0" x 31", L41 8'8", 18' Speedboard, etc. etc.

TallDude

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Re: Surfing...more sport or religion?
« Reply #2 on: August 19, 2017, 10:27:30 AM »
It's not overhead to me!
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Night Wing

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Re: Surfing...more sport or religion?
« Reply #3 on: August 19, 2017, 12:43:44 PM »
It's not surfing per say for me. It's being on, in or around saltwater for me. I got my first taste of the saltwater environment when I was 7 years old. That was 60 years ago.

When it comes to saltwater; it doesn't matter what I'm doing whether it's pier fishing, surf fishing, crabbing, clamming, kayaking, prone surfing, supping, sailing and last but not least, piloting a boat. Being on, in or around saltwater just gives me a nice "feeling" which I can't really describe. Even the smell of the salt in the air gives me this feeling.

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PDLSFR

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Re: Surfing...more sport or religion?
« Reply #4 on: August 19, 2017, 01:05:49 PM »
Its like Therapy for the Soul  !!!!
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SUPcheat

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Re: Surfing...more sport or religion?
« Reply #5 on: August 19, 2017, 05:53:45 PM »
Hard not to believe in a Higher Power when it is beating the snot out of you.
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Bean

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Re: Surfing...more sport or religion?
« Reply #6 on: August 19, 2017, 06:40:51 PM »
Yes, all of the above.  When I sprained/broke my ankle last Sunday, I asked God to please carry me safely back to my Jeep.  He said, can't you see I've got my hands full with PonoBill and his bro Stoneaxe? ;D

supthecreek

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Re: Surfing...more sport or religion?
« Reply #7 on: August 19, 2017, 06:42:42 PM »

^^^ Funny Bean  ;D ;D ;D

If it's religion.... it's a cult, cuz there's no getting out.



NorthJerzSurfer

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Re: Surfing...more sport or religion?
« Reply #8 on: August 19, 2017, 07:02:25 PM »
It's not surfing per say for me. It's being on, in or around saltwater for me. I got my first taste of the saltwater environment when I was 7 years old. That was 60 years ago.

When it comes to saltwater; it doesn't matter what I'm doing whether it's pier fishing, surf fishing, crabbing, clamming, kayaking, prone surfing, supping, sailing and last but not least, piloting a boat. Being on, in or around saltwater just gives me a nice "feeling" which I can't really describe. Even the smell of the salt in the air gives me this feeling.

With you Night Wing.....been arranging jobs, girlfriends, (then wives and kids) , and priorities to be by the sea for years,,, (except when i cheated on mother ocean and moved to Park City to snowboard.... )

Now settled nice and tight to get my saltwater fix as much as I want here at the NJ shore.


Quickbeam

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Re: Surfing...more sport or religion?
« Reply #9 on: August 19, 2017, 08:01:44 PM »
Its like Therapy for the Soul  !!!!

I'm not a surfer but am an avid paddle boarder, and the above is the best description for me.
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beached

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Re: Surfing...more sport or religion?
« Reply #10 on: August 21, 2017, 05:12:07 AM »
"...they feel increased amounts of unity, reverence, and happiness in the water".

apparently the author hasn't surfed in a place where territorial nut jobs scream at you for even thinking about taking a wave. from my experiences, if surfing is a religion, it's most like ISIS.

iopsailor

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Re: Surfing...more sport or religion?
« Reply #11 on: August 21, 2017, 05:33:52 AM »
Like the ten blind men and the elephant, everybody's experience depends on where you touch it.  I was out in the waves with a guy on a Sunday morning when he said he had to leave soon tho go to church.  I looked all around us and asked "you mean THIS isn't church?"

Supshaper

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Re: Surfing...more sport or religion?
« Reply #12 on: August 21, 2017, 06:04:39 AM »
As Ship Frye once said:  Worship the Creator, not the Creation. 
"Surfboards are in an infinite and endless evolution.  Just when the shaper thinks he has built the perfect board, he thinks of something different to make it better."  GL

surfinJ

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Re: Surfing...more sport or religion?
« Reply #13 on: August 21, 2017, 09:06:40 AM »
The ocean is my medicine. The surf an addiction.

And it's definelty a religious experience some days.

stoneaxe

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Re: Surfing...more sport or religion?
« Reply #14 on: August 21, 2017, 11:49:42 AM »
All of the above. Just wish I could get to the altar more often. Maybe if I sprinkle some coppertone around and pray to the Laird.
Bob

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