I have a new tube bender that I got to rebuild the roll cage on my Ambro. Before I start bending a lot of super-expensive 1.5" .120 wall DOM tubing and even more expensive Chrome moly I got 20 feet of welded seam .120 wall to make sure I can bend and fabricate to tolerance. It's still 60 bucks worth of tubing, so I might as well make something useful with it. I'm thinking Shaping stand. Bend two identical board supports with some degree of precision, and then practice both my notching and welding skills to add the base. Now the question is how deep, how wide the throat should be, and how high the working height. I could guess, but since part of this exercise is working to specifications, it would be nice to have some measurements to start with. Your assistance would be appreciated.

My Tig welding has advanced tremendously over the last two weeks at the cost of a lot of filler rod, $263 worth of Argon, and about 300 coupons, tubing bits, angles, plates and odd shapes in steel, aluminum, stainless, copper and brass (I never thought of welding copper before--welds great), as well as a few holes in clothing and subsequent hopping around cursing violently. I've welded for fifty years, but this is the first time I've ever been serious about doing it well. Very satisfying.  Very time consuming, but worth it.

In the unlikely event you are in the market for a great tube bender, the JD Squared 32 is simply awesome. I've used expensive hydraulic benders before. This one is manual, but it permits better control and makes perfect un-kinked bends in thin or thick wall tubing. You'd think manual bending  a thick wall 2" tube would be impossible, but it's actually quite easy and precise. The bender is cheap ($300), the dies are expensive (about $300 each) but nothing like big hydraulic benders that start at 5K and head north fast.

A raising glassing rack has been on my list for a long time but quite a tricky project to get right especially on a sup scale. It could defiantly use a few bent tubes though to make some sort of cam

Pono, round tubing leaves less surface area for the blank to rest on. I find that I get bruises on EPS blanks when using my stand made from 2" tubing, even with a couple of layers of 1" padding. I've changed out to a 3" flat surface stand which evens out the pressure.

Thanks all, i knew i could count on you. A raiing stand is a geat idea. 1.5 in tube telescopes into 1.5 pipe. I could use chair lifters with pins fot positive setting. Will do. 

was trawling bangood and came across these which may work good for the adjustable glassing stand idea.

https://www.banggood.com/750N-12V-24681012-inch-Linear-Actuator-Adjustable-Actuator-Tor-Opener-Linear-Actuator-Motor-p-1110373.html?rmmds=category

I love the fact that I have to have at least two complete sets of mechanics tools, SAE and Metric.  It really is convenient, just last week I misplaced my 1/2" socket so I simply grabbed a 13mm. 

In any event here are some simple plans for a shaping stand from Greenlight Surf Supply (NJ):

https://greenlightsurfsupply.com/pages/greenlight-surfboard-building-guide-a-z.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0689/1441/files/build-a-surfboard-shaping-rack.pdf?367

The stands look great, nice work, the height adjustability is a nice touch.  I am a little concerned about the size of the buckets you used though.  The footprint seems pretty small, especially if you are working on a wider board.  If the board is slightly off center and you are applying pressure it could tip or be unstable.

Looking good, but I have to say if your ever going to want to shape anything on them you will want them on a much more solid base or even bolted to the floor. If not a tube that at least holds the two together as a wobbly stand makes it take twice as long and almost imposable to shape accurately. look forward to seeing how the actuators go.

I have ended up building the most expensive glassing racks in the world here but it would be very easy to fit actuators to the adjustable height mechanism.