Author Topic: Mavericks and the Singularity  (Read 22633 times)

Beasho

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Mavericks and the Singularity
« on: December 06, 2016, 05:23:51 AM »
Given the advancements in technology, Google Earth, Drones and the proliferation of digital imagery we are fast approaching the

Singularity of Surfing

When all actions will be recorded from multiple perspectives for the benefit of the surfer and the interested populous.

Fortunately for me this meant that some of the better waves that I caught this winter are on record as follows:

December 12th 8:10 am: Mavericks Denton’s Peak.  High Tide + 7 feet @ 8:07 am Buoys 12ft @ 15 secs

1.   Surfline Mavericks Camera
2.   Series of photos taken by Brian Overfelt from a Jetski
3.   TRACE GPS Record of wave - Devoid of geographic flavor BUT records exact time for later synchronization with other sources

Brian was working out the kinks for his new waterproof housing hence the bounce and focus issues.  As I said we are approaching the singularity but are not quite to the point of having perfect crystalline records of all photons from all angles.  But I'll take what I can get  ;D

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZZqMjJ9qIY

« Last Edit: December 06, 2016, 05:56:27 AM by Beasho »

Beasho

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Re: Mavericks and the Singularity
« Reply #1 on: December 06, 2016, 05:24:12 AM »
December 12th 8:45 am: Mavericks Denton’s Peak:

1.   Surfline Mavericks Camera: Note 2 SUP’s on Wave.  I was wide with Ian Wallace deeper on the wave.
2.   Series of photos taken by Brian Overfelt from a Jetski
3.   TRACE GPS Record of wave - Recorded exact time for later synchronization with Surfline Video rewind

I was particularly proud of this set of photos because I went on record for taking off regular foot.  Having been goofy foot all my life but forced, by the wave in Davenport California on a windsurfer to go right, left foot forward with no alternative I committed 7 years ago to learning to surf front side both ways. 

https://youtu.be/i7BDyZyzp-8
« Last Edit: December 06, 2016, 05:44:10 AM by Beasho »

Beasho

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Re: Mavericks and the Singularity
« Reply #2 on: December 06, 2016, 05:24:27 AM »
December 6th 12:24 pm Mavericks Denton’s Peak:

N/A   Surfline Mavericks Camera: Obscured by Fog
1.   Series of video frames from end of Surfline Video taken by Travis Kuhlman (??? as credited from video)
2.   TRACE GPS Record of wave - Recorded exact time & confirmed that Surfline Video was fogged out.

The craziest thing about this wave was the heat.  I was looking up-wave to see if anyone was on the wave then it all exploded in front of me.  In the back of my mind I was thinking “No one is coming out of that bomb.”  There was a bizarre sense of heat emanating from the wave that I had never felt before.  It was as if the air was still and hot.  The only thing I can conclude was that the pressure wave created a forward burst of air putting me in a stagnation layer.  Without the typical rush of wind up the face there was no cooling effect that conversely made the wave feel ‘hot.’ 
« Last Edit: December 06, 2016, 05:32:37 AM by Beasho »

Beasho

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Re: Mavericks and the Singularity
« Reply #3 on: December 06, 2016, 05:30:04 AM »
More complete video from Nov 6th here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kBNppnXb33A
« Last Edit: December 06, 2016, 05:48:21 AM by Beasho »

supthecreek

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Re: Mavericks and the Singularity
« Reply #4 on: December 06, 2016, 05:32:31 AM »
Yeeeewwwww Beasho! Charging into the big leagues with style and grit!

PDLSFR

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Re: Mavericks and the Singularity
« Reply #5 on: December 06, 2016, 10:15:53 AM »
Just awesome and incredible !!

Thanks for the inspiration to go out and charge.
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dns

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Re: Mavericks and the Singularity
« Reply #6 on: December 06, 2016, 11:33:29 AM »
Awesome! However the video does highlight my main gripe about big wave surfing. Every single shot was a guy (or 3) just surviving the drop then getting mowed by the white water.

Looks like Beasho had better rides sitting inside and hopping on the shoulder where he could actually make a turn and work the wave better than the proners.

SlatchJim

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Re: Mavericks and the Singularity
« Reply #7 on: December 06, 2016, 03:54:38 PM »
170+ yards, 0 turns!  Yea, I don't think I'd get to fancy with a 4 story building about to fall on me either. The shots you got are unbelievable.

jpeter

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Re: Mavericks and the Singularity
« Reply #8 on: December 06, 2016, 04:49:05 PM »
Beasho,  I always enjoy your posts,  like to see the 1% r's who charge it to the fullest.

It is interesting how much of our lives are recorded now.   I am generally the photographer, so capturing moments where I was there but it's usually my friends who get the limelight.  We have a surfline camera at our local beach now and I do find it fun to watch the rewind.  A mix of entertainment and self critique watching myself surf, fall in, fight my way out ...   
  Now the drones are taking over,  multiple people using them in my area.   I was getting followed around by one a week ago while wind-supping.  Weird feeling, but it turns out the guy made a nice little video of me catching some waves. 

Keep at it for the rest of us.

JP
 

surfinJ

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Re: Mavericks and the Singularity
« Reply #9 on: December 06, 2016, 09:22:15 PM »
I was particularly proud of this set of photos because I went on record for taking off regular foot.  Having been goofy foot all my life but forced, by the wave in Davenport California on a windsurfer to go right, left foot forward with no alternative I committed 7 years ago to learning to surf front side both ways. 

A rare skill set.  And not on a small beachie!

stoneaxe

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Re: Mavericks and the Singularity
« Reply #10 on: December 07, 2016, 06:38:46 AM »
I love this picture......like a warrior girded for battle.
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Beasho

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Re: Mavericks and the Singularity
« Reply #11 on: December 09, 2016, 07:53:52 AM »
I love this picture......like a warrior girded for battle.


For whatever reason the 1st picture above resonates with most people as "Oh My God"

Although it is the second picture below that best captures in my mind the magnitude, the other-worldlyness and the ultimate awe of Just How Big is that Wave.
« Last Edit: December 09, 2016, 07:58:45 AM by Beasho »

Beasho

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Re: Mavericks and the Singularity
« Reply #12 on: December 09, 2016, 07:59:05 AM »
Speaking of Singularities the movie Interstellar had a scene that conveyed the horror of what a wave is like at Mavericks.

I once blurted out "That wave was as big as a house" and my surf mentor Dave said "I like to think of them more as Apartment Buildings because they stretch from one end of the horizon to the other and fill your field of view."

Matthew McConaughey's face convey's how I feel every-time I drop into a wave at Mavericks.  Add to this the perspective which on a big wave starts out CONVEX before it goes CONCAVE.  This is something you don't notice about waves until they become huge.
« Last Edit: December 09, 2016, 08:10:09 AM by Beasho »

Beasho

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Re: Mavericks and the Singularity
« Reply #13 on: December 09, 2016, 07:59:29 AM »
"Those Aren't Mountains Those Are Waves"

On every wave there is: The transition from flat calm, to realization, to rising blood pressure, Brand's wimper and the necessary return to cognitive control all the while knowing what is coming at you from behind, the loss of Doyle as a metaphor for fear, and the final release to let the combination of your human preparation, capability and technology play out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v-xh_gq8sbk
« Last Edit: December 09, 2016, 08:31:55 AM by Beasho »

littleray

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Re: Mavericks and the Singularity
« Reply #14 on: December 09, 2016, 02:42:02 PM »
That made me laugh.I'm thinking that's what I look like when it's only over head.

 


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